SUPPORT

The Lacey Act is a conservation law in the United States that makes it unlawful to import, export, transport, sell, receive, acquire, or purchase in interstate or foreign commerce any plant, with some limited exceptions, taken in violation of the laws of a U.S. State, or any foreign law that protects plants. Regal Hardwoods incorporates sustainable forestry practices and never condones illegal logging. We require all our raw material suppliers to be Lacey Act compliant.

The only advantage to a site-finished floor is that you can customize your color, but with so many pre-finished options today, it is not necessary to go through the hassle of the sanding and finishing process. Site finished flooring typically uses 2 or 3 coats of polyurethane finish. Where they fall short is that they do not have nanotechnology engineered aluminum oxide in them. On average, site finished flooring will need recoating every 5 to 7 years, but our pre-finished floors are guaranteed for at least 50 years. Site finished flooring carries no warranties on finish or structure. Site finished flooring also requires extensive cleaning and touch-up from the sanding and staining process. Site finished floors also cure in an uncontrolled environment allowing for dust and trash to be trapped in the finish. We take all of the work away with superior prefinished products.  

A 7 ply Baltic Birch hardwood core is much more stable than softwood core. It is best for providing structural stability and preventing most expansion and contraction of the floor. Most manufactures use poplar, compressed fiber board, or other soft wood options to reduce cost & weight, allowing them to ship more due to freight restrictions.

Acclimation is not required to install our engineered hardwood floors. Prior to installation of engineered hardwoods the job site temperature and relative humidity levels MUST be carefully measured. The homeowner MUST maintain the recommended ranges (60° to 80° F & 35 to 50 Relative Humidity) to ensure the best protection for the lifelong durability of your floor.

Over the past decade there has been huge controversy over engineered vs. solid wood flooring. Engineered flooring was designed to be more dimensional stable than solid under certain conditions. Most manufacturers have found by maintaining proper relative humidity (typically between 35 to 55%) engineered flooring remains reasonably stable where solid flooring will see side affects like gapping. Engineered will also see side affects but at lesser amounts.

If engineered flooring is exposed to high or low RH conditions one may see irreversible affects like checking, splitting, shear, delamination, dry cupping, etc. When environmental conditions go beyond the caution zone and into the guaranteed to fail zone these side effects will become permanent. Where solid wood flooring will see side affects as well but usually will just have larger gaps between the planks.

Listed below is a chart which helps outline some of the relative humidity boundaries by the flooring manufacturers.

Please be sure to ask your retailer regarding proper relative humidity requirements and the possibility of the effects in the “Guaranteed to Fail” zone. If you live in a location where the relative humidity typically falls out of the Safe Zone, you might consider purchasing a meter for frequent checks. 

We have four locations for your convenience. We are headquartered in Carrollton, Texas, and other branches are in Houston, Austin, and Salt Lake City:

Regal DFW Headquarters
1540 Selene Dr. Suite #110

Carrollton, TX. 75006

Tel: 972-620-8833

Regal Hardwoods Houston

8790 West Rd. Suite #150

Houston, TX. 77064
Tel: 713-462-4420

Regal Hardwoods Austin
9101 Wall Street, Suite#300
Austin, TX 78754
Tel: 512-363-5267

Regal Hardwoods Utah
3752 West 2270 South, Suite A
West Valley City, UT 84120
Tel: 385-770-7012

Our transition molding offers a unique, low profile multi-function transition with a variety of uses. It will work as a T-Molding, Reducer or End Cap/Carpet Transition. As a Reducer, it can accommodate up to a remarkable ¾-inch (19mm) reduction.  Plastic dowels included for easy installation. 

Step 1: Slide one dowel into molding groove and position in center of molding. Insert additional dowels from both ends. Space dowels 11.5”apart and 1.5” from ends. The surface material consists of hard wearing aluminum oxide laminate. The core is sturdy PVC. 

Step 2: Install the flooring planks, including the underlayment, by leaving a 1" inch (25mm) gap for the installation of the molding.

Step 3: Draw a line on the flooring for the placement of the holes. Using a 1/4” drill bit, pre-drill holes into the flooring 2” deep. Be sure to use the same measurements as the dowels, keeping the holes 11.5“ apart. With a pencil, mark on the floor where each dowel is located (You will need these for Step 7). Pencil marks should be about 1” from the pre-drilled holes.

Step 4: Carefully line up dowels with pre-drilled holes. Make adjustments to the dowel positions on the molding if needed.

Step 5: Using both hands, start at one end and gently push molding 1/4”down. Make sure dowel is straight and that you apply pressure directly over dowel. The best position is to hold dowel with pointer and middle fingers and push down with thumbs. Moving down the molding again, push the dowels in the floor 1/4” at a time. It should take several passes to push the molding all the way down. The fatter end of the molding MUST be placed on the lower of the two surfaces.

Step 6: Once molding is about a finger’s width from the floor (about 3/8” or 9.5 mm), insert the tip of a glue gun under 1 edge of the molding. Apply Liquid Nails or any polyurethane constructive adhesive along 1 side of the flooring. Make sure you apply adhesive to ONLY 1 side of the molding and that all surfaces that the adhesive touches is dust and debris free. When finished applying adhesive, start again at beginning of molding and push dowels all the way down until molding is
secure. Use a rubber mallet to gently tap on top of each dowel until molding sits flush. Use pencil marks as reference.

Our matching stair caps accompanies our Rigidcore CLIQ vinyl floors perfectly and can accommodate overlap, lock down and flush mount installation methods. It works equally well for an entire stairway (flush mount) or a single step like a sunken room (overlap). It is also waterproof and is constructed of sturdy PVC and covered with a wear resistant finish.

Step 1: Clean the staircase from all dust and debris. All wood or concrete stair surfaces must be properly prepared, stable, flat, and free of adhesive residue or anything that may be an adhesive bond breaker. IMPORTANT: Installing over existing flooring on stairs is not permitted. Existing flooring must be removed. Start at the top of the Stair Case and work your way down. The strategy, as you will see in the steps that follow, will be to glue and staple down the stair cap first. Then, glue down the plank and/or return(s). Move on to the next stair and repeat Steps 2 to 5.

Step 2: The stair cap does not come with an underlayment. Apply enough adhesive to the broad flat area to make the Caps and Returns level with the floor plank. Turn the first stair cap over and apply adhesive on the inside corner and a generous amount of adhesive on the broad flat area.

Step 3: Place the stair cap on the stair. Position it where you want it.

Step 4: Make sure the underlayment is firmly and completely attached to the floor plank. If it is not, either remove it or reattach it with adhesive. Next, take the plank and/or return(s) that go with the stair cap you just fixed on the Stair. Turn them over and apply a generous amount of adhesive to them. If installing returns, apply glue to the inside corner of the return and then apply adhesive to the broad flat area of the return like you did to the Cap in Step 2.

Step 5: Next, place the plank and/or return(s) in place. Clean up any excess adhesive with a damp rag before applying the painters tape. Use painter’s tape to tape the stair cap to the flooring plank and returns. Place a heavy weight across the seams. Let the adhesive cure for 48 hours before heavy traffic. Once dry, you can remove painter’s tape from stairs. Next, move on to the next stair and repeat Steps 2 to 5.